An epic journey

The south of Israel introduces the adventurous tourist to most of what the country has to offer – history, beaches, hilly hamlets and the magnificent Dead Sea. We drove to Jerusalem from Tel Aviv airport, encountering surprising stretches of greenery on the way. But the kind of beauty we encountered in Jerusalem put all of the aforementioned scenery to shame.Patches of colourful flowers at street junctions, quaint residences with graceful balconies and the lilting framework of the Old City on the fringes of the new settlements etched the city in our hearts in no time.
Back in time
One could easily spend a few days exploring every nook and cranny of the Old City but we managed to grasp the mystical significance of the Church of Holy Sepulchre and the Western Wall in a single day. At the Western Wall, it’s quite common to see Jewish men and women praying and weeping for the destruction of their temples in the past. By night, we were mesmerised by a sound and light show at the Tower of David, demonstrating the various invaders who tried to claim the holy land for themselves through history.
Biblical haven
Our next stop in Israel was the Ein Gedi kibbutz, one of several in the country and well-frequented due to its proximity to the Dead Sea. But before that, we had to stop at Ein Karem, a village so beautiful, it was straight out of a fairy tale. Nestled in mountains and greenery, this little town was the birthplace of St John the Baptist and is a popular pilgrimage site for Christians. We enjoyed a long stroll on tree-fringed paths, encountering churches and a holy spring on the way.
At Ein Gedi, we stayed in individual, rustic cottages with little verandas made cool and fragrant by the tall trees waving in the ever-present breeze. The community also houses a wonderful botanical garden, full of indigenous plants. Rubbing myrrh leaves between our hands and then inhaling its Biblical fragrance was a magical experience, as was witnessing the sun rise above the Judean Mountains at 6 am. At the Ein Gedi Desert Institute, we were lucky enough to see a Nubian ibex (mountain goat) and her two babies at close quarters.
Drop-dead gorgeous
The Dead Sea being the saltiest sea in the world, allows humans to float without any movement. Half an hour of soaking in its unique composition of salts and minerals was enough to leave us feeling uniquely rejuvenated. Many also apply the curative mud from the banks of the sea, followed by an outdoor shower and a dip in a warm sulphur pool.
Another highlight of the trip was our visit to the resort town of Eilat, famous for the Dolphin Reef, Underwater Observatory and Marine Park and, of course, the Red Sea which is actually deep blue in colour. Walking along the winding canal in the night and passing by energetic bars, fairs and al fresco restaurants was an experience to cherish.
On the whole, Israel charmed us with opposing elements contributing to a social, political, cultural environment, pulsating with energy.
Ready reckoner
Getting there: Turkish Airlines flies to Tel Aviv via Istanbul.
What to eat: It is an epicure’s delight. Think tons of fresh olives, tahini, salty labneh cheese and smoked eggplant. Shakshouka, a poached eggs in tomato sauce dish; maklouba, a rice dish with roasted vegetables and meat; halva made of sesame and syrupy baklava are some of the must-haves.
What to buy: Shopping can be expensive (one shekel equals around `18) but the Armenian ceramic bowls and kitchen ware are worth buying.